June 10th 2018
Knysna, South Africa
Coming to Knysna is always a bit like coming home. Some things
in Knysna have changed. The burnt hills have regrown, bright green vegetation filling
the gaps. The lodge has changed as well—the backyard is level, and a new
paddleboard rests next to the kayak. We now have wifi, a change greeted with
much delight (I now have no excuse not to blog). Other things are very much the
same.
Half of our crew was mislaid, tickets cancelled, delayed, or
flights missed. Generally, the worst we can expect is for someone—one person—to
miss their bus. However, six of eight incoming students missed their arrivals,
turning our weekend into a constantly evolving schedule. Fortunately, the MAP (Mosselbaai
Archaeology Project) CRM people spent a considerable amount of time sorting
through equipment and prepping it for our season. Generally, this is a last-minute
action performed by newly arrived students and the MAP staff, but this new
system works much better.
The traffic appears to be worse, ensnaring us as we drove through
town. Still, the sunlight glinting off the lagoon and highlighting the rim of
the Knysna Heads makes up for the commute. The glen hasn’t changed. The wind
comes whistling through like a cannon, tearing through our layers of clothes.
By the time we left, I think all of us were quite ready to be out of the wind.
The city has installed a new staircase since last year. Despite the damp wood
and glistening surface, the broads were not slick enough to cause an accident.
The trail has become significantly more overgrown than normal, healthy, thick
fynbos tangling our steps. The fire has allowed the vegetation to come back so
much stronger.
Once at the base of the cliff, we unloaded and had everyone
wait while Dr. C and I set the ropes. It took us some time to remember how to
tie them, fortunately, someone had the foresight to tape the portions where the
knots are placed. Once everyone arrived we began planning how best to attack
the mound of partially cemented sandbags reaching up the slope. Forming a
chain, we removed the layers of sand, splitting them into piles of “good,” “recycle,”
and “rock.” The sandbags, frayed by years of use and exposure to the elements,
tore as often as not, and soon a layer of bright yellow sand covered the
turrets and the exposed sediment. Shortly after, we grabbed buckets and
scrapped it away, pouring it into unused bucket bags. Using the boards, we
began to break up the hardened sand.
Once everything was exposed, we set the total stations
(guns). Our gunners are inching ever closer to the edge, driven by the lowering
and shifting excavation. The bad thing about a slope is that eventually you
will reach the bottom, which in our case happens to be the edge of a cliff.
Once the tripods were set and the guns secured, we ran into a snag: the batteries
weren’t actually onsite. In exasperation, a group of us went to pack in more
sandbags. By the time everything arrived, it was time for us to depart. It wasn’t
until the following day that things began to run more smoothly. The guns were
set, not in record time, but without incident. Excavators were assigned to quads. We are
opening new quads this year, and the result has given the slope a new depth. I can
no longer stand at the bottom of the sequence and reach the top. Another benefit
to this is having a lot more excavators—we have set three guns and they are
constantly collecting data.
Onsite, there is a rush to set the guns, the lights, the table. afterwards, everything falls into a comfortable but busy lull. Buckets are passed up and down. Artifacts are plotted and removed. We have yet to spot an elusive otter, but are optimistic. Seeing seals and whale frequently helps.
It wasn’t until Friday that our staircase was set. We spent
much of the week dragging several hundred sandbags closer to site, finally
gathering them at the base of a cliff. By forming a bucket chain along the edge
of the cliff (everyone in precarious positions are roped in), we passed them up.
With the creation of our stairs, we are ready for the next five weeks in the
field.
Saturday we were excited to visit our favorite market in Sedgefield,
where the best food and drinks are to be found. The rain has kept us from
hiking, so this first weekend offers more opportunities for relaxing.
I like reading your blog! :)
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