Written during the 2016 field season
Knysna, South Africa
Teatime
was our downfall. By tradition, (and for sanity), tea is taken twice daily at our archaeological site. Although equally as many, if not more of the
crew chose to consume coffee during the break, "tea" time was the
designated moniker, despite the fact that the muddy, sweaty, jean-clad
archaeologists perched in a cave were a far cry from a quiet teatime.
The
coffee thermos vanished immediately, divided into a plethora of tin cups,
leaving the hot water to be split between the herbal connoisseurs and hot
chocolate lovers. Boxed milk, with a
manufacturing label proclaiming a life span of multiple weeks, despite a lack
of refrigeration (not always true...!), and a bag of sugar offered additional
energy.
At
this point, myself and our assistant director began a lively discussion of the
necessity of sugar for tea. This rapidly (teatime is a strict 15 minutes)
devolved into the suggestion that the required sugar fix be solved by a
spoonful of white granules. Most people don't go around ingesting
sugar by the spoonful At this
point, I remarked "tea is a socially acceptable way to eat sugar!"
During
the remainder of our field season, I enjoyed noting the "socially
acceptable" ways to eat sugar, quite possibly to the annoyance of other
crew members. Our list was extensive. Here, I have gathered five, (or, rather,
five categories) for your consideration and enjoyment.
1)
Drinks
Coffee,
and the caffeine ensconced in it, is a necessity for adult functionality.
Alright, I exaggerate....but not extensively. Aside from the delight and
magical effects of caffeine, the drink itself is a rich, aromatic delight that
some require be diluted with sugar. Luckily, I have developed the fortitude to
drink it black, but wouldn't turn down a cavity-inducing frappachino from
starbucks (or anywhere else for that matter). Limiting these helps both my
wallet and dental health.
Those
who don't drink coffee may prefer tea, or perhaps, are already sufficiently awake.
The myriad of benefits offered by this beverage include staying awake, falling asleep,
curing/alleviating various colds, in addition to more ritualistic nature in
certain locations. Tea is our second most popular drink on site, beating hot
chocolate (because only one person was consuming it). It is certainly an
acquired taste (which I acquired in 2015), and I’ve noted that many people prefer some flavors over others.
I have yet to convince my skeptical South African comrades that pumpkin spice
tea is amazing. It’s
probably best not to debate some American’s
obsession with all things pumpkin spice, so I will say that I have developed a
taste for rooibos. As with coffee, some people like to offset the bitter taste
with sugar.
Coke
in south Africa is described as superior to its American counterpart. Unlike in
the United States, they use real sugar to create the soda. However, when
consumed in large qualities, also negatively impacts sleep and coherence. A
crewmember became briefly addicted to it, suffering through numerous sugar crashes
from drinking a six pack a day, before switching to tea, but not before
introducing me to the amazing qualities of the soda.
Alcohol
is strictly forbidden onsite (perils of working on a cliff....), but located
readily on numerous other occasions. Arguably beer could have nutritional
qualities, because of the wheat content, but the rum and coke is likely a
different story….
2)
Toppers
A
delectable treat seemingly absent from American soil (as far as I can tell), the
popularity of these rectangular, cream filled cookies demands their own
category. Vanilla, chocolate, mint....a multitude of flavors. Bulk quantities
of chocolate and vanilla were readily available following the PP5-6 field
season (somehow unconsumed by the ravenous crew), and subsequently appeared at
KEH-1. Our crew was fairly evenly split between chocolate and vanilla lovers, causing
minor disputes about which cookies should be eaten, which type was no longer
on site, and how many should replace them.
The
small, tasty treats were a great way to provide a boost of energy, especially after
the strenuous hike. I admit addiction, although I would not be alone at a
"toppers anonymous" meeting. That is, until halfway through the
season another crew member made a remark about the amount of sugar in those
cookies.
Suddenly
there were a lot of extra cookies.
3) Chocolate
Chocolate
bars are amazing in that they are small, compact, and easy to transport. While
the melting point may be a critical consideration for other excavations,
luckily, KEH-1 field seasons take place during the south African winter (hint:
occurs during summer in the northern hemisphere). A was rare a day would pass
that someone didn’t
bring chocolate to site, usually generously split among the crew. Our assistant
director is especially fond of kit kats, and these frequently appeared during
teatime. I cant say I'm complaining. Occasionally, our site director would
leave a bar of milk chocolate on the table. This usually required a delay of
approximately 2.5 seconds to locating
the owner and obtaining permission to eat said food. Chocolate served as a
quick pick me up following the aforementioned hike, and sometimes we’d tuck extras in the packs for
the walk out.
4) Baked
goods.
Some
days, the best days, we got additional sugar onsite--in the form of cake. This
all began the Monday after our braai. I decided a leftover cake would perfectly
compliment our coffee. Similar to a bunt cake, with a hole in the center which
could be argued to signify loss of nutrients, it was a store bought, glazed
confection encased in a clear plastic container, conveniently provided with a
handle for carrying over an uneven trail and up a cliff (….probably not what the
manufacturers had in mind). This proved popular with our crew, and weekly cakes
made their way along the cliffs to the humble cave.
Midway
through our season, we discovered the most amazing Italian restaurant. After a
dinner of extravagant pasta and pizza, I spotted...the cake. Mario's sells a
variety of rich, homemade cakes, displayed on a pivoting glass stand. I decided
that the thick chocolate cake would make an excellent lunch the following day.
This turned out to be a brilliant idea!...I had amazing amounts of energy for
two hours.
Complete
sugar crash.
The
final weekends at the PP5-6 season coincide with the 4th of July (American
patriotism at its most colorful), Canada day, and the birthday of a senior
staff member. These 3 important holidays, combined with the regular weekly
braai, resulted in singularly amazing desserts. Usually in the form of apple
pie and cake. Enormous, expertly decorated, unforgettable cakes. One of these,
a giant strawberry sheet cake, covered in an inch of pink icing and studded
with liquorish and candies, was the perfect end-of-season farewell to the PP5-6 crew,
as they departed for home. I can't take credit for that one.
I can take slightly more credit for our end of season cakes. While they were not my idea, I did help with the sketching.
I can take slightly more credit for our end of season cakes. While they were not my idea, I did help with the sketching.
Another favorite is the South African pastry known as "kochsisters". Imagine a heavy donut, dipped in syrup. Dripping syrup. Our favorites were bought fresh at the local farmers market, but could be purchased at any store. They say the best part of travel is the food, and we were having a blast.
5)
Braai desserts.
A blog
about food in south Africa would be incomplete without mention of a braai. A
braai is similar to an American BBQ, except that the food is cooked over coals
vs. open flames. It is a major social gathering, a custom happily continued by
most of the PP5-6 and KEH-1 crews. Despite the cold, once a week we venture
outdoors, light a fire, re-arrange the lawn furniture, collect our drinks, plug
someone's phone into the speaker, and proeed to cook large amounts of meat and
vegetables (some would argue that a braai is only for meat, but our vegetarians
would disagree). A handful of our favorites include: braai rolls, lambchops, borewurst
(I have on good authority that no braai is complete without these), gem squash,
bacon twisties (literally bacon wrapped around a stick), bacon wrapped
cherries, vegetable skewers, and ostrich steak.
And,
because by some miracle we are still hungry, we plan dessert.
Simple,
easy and a giant mess? Slice a banana, stuff it full of chocolate and mini
marshmellows, and wrap in foil. This seems more like the quintessential summer
camp treat, but it also goes well with rum and coke.
Malva
pudding. In case you have never heard of this, it is another amazing south
African dish. one of our teammates makes unparalleled malva pudding. For some odd
reason, we only consume about half the dish at the braai. The rest make its way
to the fridge in my flat (again, I can’t
take credit). Word got out, prompting late night visitors and midnight parties.
I can also vouch for its use as a quick breakfast.
Honerable
mention: ice cream.
I'm
always tempted to pick up a magnum bar at our morning coffee stop, but have yet
to follow through. There are plenty of other chances for the icy dessert,
despite the winter weather. I've succeeded in getting someone else addicted to
the stuff, and we subsequently planned several ice cream heists. However, not
all of these ended on a positive note.
In
Plettenburgbaai, there is a wide stretch of beach providing one with an
excellent view of the mountain, bay, waves, and sky. Also a hotel, boats, and
shops, including an ice cream kiosk. Several of us had purchased our snacks and
settled down on the sand. The seagulls eyed us. Another crewmember purchased
fries. The seagulls attacked, whooping in with keen eyes and sharp beaks. Fries
flew everywhere.
By now,
you might be wondering if we ever consume vegetables. Many archaeologists are
health conscious, and a number are vegan/vegetarian (kudos for keeping this up
while in a foreign land!). However, the logistical and ecological constrains of
a field seasons require some exceptions: between all the heavy lifting and
walking, high energy snacks are a must.
So,
next time you see your local archaeologist, offer them coffee or tea (or hot
chocolate!) I won’t
turn you down.
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